Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
